Behind Prem Rouge: A Conversation with Our Master Perfumers
In January 2025, we spent a day in the lab with Master Perfumers Clementine and Patty to finalise the formula for Prem Rouge. Here’s what they shared about bringing this project to life.
Why they took it on
For Clementine and Patty, Prem Rouge represented something different. “It is an extremely unique project”, they explained. “We are explorers. We love to explore.” What drew them in was the focus on naturalness, highlighting two flowers that perfume lovers often hear about: the rose and the tuberose. Clementine explored new facets of both.
TRANSLATING THE BRIEF
The brief resonated with them. They used it to create a story that would evoke two distinct. Landscapes: India and the South of France. “Two completely different landscapes” they said, “by exploring the yin and yang of each of these flowers.”
The technical challenge
Working with 100% pure rose and tuberose, using only molecules isolated from nature, proved demanding. “It was a real challenge indeed” they admitted. “How do you interpret and shape these poems of nature with an extremely limited range of raw materials?”.
The absence of alcohol added another layer of complexity. They had to reimagine how ingredients would mix together using water and oil as mediums, working with properties specific to an alcohol-free palette.
Working Together
Language occasionally presented obstacles, but Clementine’s bilingual skills helped bridge the gap. Their partnership works because of complementary strengths. Patty has the clarity
to translate a brief into scent, providing the necessary elements and guidance. Clementine takes those raw materials and puts them into what they call “olfactory alchemy” making each ingredient tell the intended story. “It’s truly a work of symbiosis, alchemy and continuity” they said.
The Final Choices
Their selections were based on beautiful, natural raw materials. They fell in love with certain ingredients: olive absolute for its balmy, powdery quality and innovative character, bringing depth to the tuberose. Cocoa surprised them by drawing out the chocolate and sensual animal notes of the tuberose.
For the rose, they worked with noble natural materials. Tuscan iris elevated it, whilst spices like cardamom and mint from India brought freshness to the dewy side of the rose. The brief called for a watery, green landscape. “Aqueous materials are not easy to find. It is very complex”, they noted. They worked the aqueous side using mint, cardamom and rhubarb, along with the mineral aspect of stone and water on limestone, with a hint of carrot to create a pebbly, mineral effect. “It was like a very delicate puzzle and a huge job”
The tuberose was paired with lavender, reflecting the South of France where lavender fields sit alongside tuberose fields. The tuberose takes in the sun later in the day, with lavender basking all day long. Clementine had to bring these different aspects together to capture the delicacy found in the landscape of southern France.
Properties and performance
Since these are alcohol-free fragrances using new technology, the application differs from traditional perfume. “We are not going to drench ourselves in perfume” they explained. “The way to apply this perfume is in an intimate way, for the person close to us.”
The water composition means the perfume won’t project far, but it stays for a long time in an intimate, close space. “Last week I used the rose perfume and I still have it on my coat today”, Patty shared.
These perfumes behave differently. “This rose doesn’t shout, but it speaks in a straightforward, humble way. It’s calm and speaks very slowly, so it will take its time to speak.”
The tuberose follows the same principle. Whilst tuberoses can sometimes be bold and extroverted, this one whispers slowly. “Its rhythm is different”, they said. “The rhythm of these perfumes lasts a very long time, and very slowly.”
They didn’t tell individual stories. They brought together two worlds: Saint-Paul-de-vance in the South of France, and Srinager, India; rose and tuberose.